Thanks for everyone's contribution and all the dialog helps tremendously. Being that I only have 7 track days under my belt and still getting use the the "new to me" M3 I'll probably stick with street tires. I'm sure I'm not even close to approaching the limit of the car's capabilities so until then I'll stay with street tires.

Peo, interesting point about suspension setup change by going to r-comp. Carlos surprised to hear to maintain 38-40 psi hot since if I remember correctly the cold pressure rear is already like 39psi.

That leads to a follow up question in that does the cold inflation pressure recommend by the mfg mean anything for HPD situations? Seems like hot tire pressure is far more subjective and variable. The cold pressure doesn't seem to provide much of a baseline or reference if the primary goals according to what I can distill from the conversation is:

- roughtly maintain 38-40 psi hot (street tires)
- set tire pressure where roll is right at the tread edge indicator.

+1 to all previous tips. I'll just throw in one more reason to bring a second set of wheels to the track:



Something really sharp cut a half inch gash right through my left rear at Sebring last event and this was the end result after getting back to the pits. Won't fix that with the "M mobility kit"

Edit: also keep in mind that your alignment (camber and toe) will greatly affect how you tires wear, more so than tire pressure on a street setup, unless you are really off on pressure.

Thanks for everyone's contribution and all the dialog helps tremendously. Being that I only have 7 track days under my belt and still getting use the the "new to me" M3 I'll probably stick with street tires. I'm sure I'm not even close to approaching the limit of the car's capabilities so until then I'll stay with street tires.

Peo, interesting point about suspension setup change by going to r-comp. Carlos surprised to hear to maintain 38-40 psi hot since if I remember correctly the cold pressure rear is already like 39psi.

That leads to a follow up question in that does the cold inflation pressure recommend by the mfg mean anything for HPD situations? Seems like hot tire pressure is far more subjective and variable. The cold pressure doesn't seem to provide much of a baseline or reference if the primary goals according to what I can distill from the conversation is:

- roughtly maintain 38-40 psi hot (street tires)
- set tire pressure where roll is right at the tread edge indicator.

The cold tire pressures from manufactures are for typical street driving or high speed straightline. They do not account for sustained lateral g's that we obtain on the track. The higher starting pressures cold listed in the door jamb are so that the operating temperatures fall roughly the same when on track.

For example: you may increase 1-5 psi on the street while on the track you'll see 6-10 psi increase...therefore you need a lower starting pressure.

Also that mark on sidewall should not be touched. That mark indicates the manufacturer's design of "no useable tread" beyond that point. If you scrub it at all, you should bump up a psi or two. If you're running staggered tires, just keep pressures equal front and rear until you know a change should occur.

Lastly, get those mismatched tires off of there. There's nothing more complicated than chasing two different compounds around the track. With 7 track days you should start to be fairly consistent, but your car's dynamics will be changing as you raise and lower tire temps.